We had a few errands to run before hitting the road for the 4-hour drive to Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary so we left Geneva’s around 10:30 in the morning after a quick hi & goodbye to the boys and Geneva’s parents who stopped by in the morning to take Ryan out for the day. We headed to Southgate Mall to pick up batteries, fruit and money.
Thankfully the drive to the Oshoek border crossing was fairly straight forward. Lots of open spaces and endless green fields. As we got closer to the Swazi border, we saw more hills, mountains and trees for logging. The weather also got more and more overcast the closer we got to Swaziland so by the time we arrived at the border, there was a steady pour. Having never crossed the border, Amy wasn’t sure what to do so we did the next best thing, followed another car. On the SA side we had to get out and go through passport control. Afterwards we drove a few short meters to the Swaziland side and went through passport control where we also had to pay a road tax. By this time, the steady pour was turning torrential. The rain and clouds were so thick through the mountains, we could barely see in front of us. Fortunately the rains finally returned to a steady rain and we were able to find our way to Mlilwane, almost 6 hours after leaving Johannesburg.
Mlilwane is one of 3 big game parks in Swaziland. It is home to zebras, hippos, crocodiles, impala, water buffalo, warthogs and many birds. We stayed at the Sondzela Backpackers in the game park. My original desire was to tent camp but changed my mind after hearing it is rainy season. And it was a good thing we didn’t because it started pouring again by the time we pulled up to Sondzela. Our original plan was to stay two nights. But considering the weather and me not feeling well (flu symptoms started on the plane ride to Cape Town), we decided to stay only one night and leave the next day for Drakensberg.
Our room was clean and tidy. Yes, there were bugs and flies but that’s to be expected. Breakfast and dinner could be purchased in advance. There was a pool and game/bar area. Amy and I both just unpacked and tried to get some rest. My sore throat became body aches, chills and a fever during the night, and again, I kept on waking up throughout the night. Amy said I snored and moaned in my sleep. Considering I was congested and felt like my body was beat up, it makes sense.
The next morning we were both up early so we decided to pack up, tour the area on our own and find different accommodations for our second and final night in Swaziland. We had asked the reception lady about the different tour options but due to some first-aid training taking place, all activities were cancelled for the next couple days. We’re not sure why she didn’t mention that when we first arrived and asked about the available activities. Anyway, after checking out, we followed the signs to the rest camp to see about the self-guided hiking trails. Fortunately the rain had stopped and some sun was breaking through so a hike seemed like a good idea. The rest camp was a much bigger facility, more housing options, a restaurant, and the starting point for all the park activities.
There were 3 hiking options. And just to make sure there were indeed no activities, we asked again, and it was reconfirmed. So, the three hiking options: 1 hr, 2.5 hrs, or 6 hrs. We opted for the 2.5 hour loop on the Hippo Lake Trail. We got the map, was shown to the starting point and told to follow the footprints. We were also warned not to get too close to the water since crocodiles could be lurking.
The Hippo Trail hike was nice. It took us through fields, along small rivers, and a couple lakes. The trail was fairly level, no major inclines. The footprints that were painted onto bricks were a huge help – definitely kept us on the right path. We saw zebras, water buffalo, impala and warthogs but no hippos. Only later did we find out that they are probably all hiding because it’s hot outside or something. We saw our first croc when we went to the restaurant for lunch. The restaurant deck looked out over a small pond which had a ton of birds, the ones that always seem to be around crocodiles, turtles and fish.
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